Saying Goodbye to Italy

So, I am sad to say that my Italian Adventure has indeed come to an end. 42 days, 10 cities, many, many steps, countless delicious meals, and one stress-fractured foot later, I am back home looking through thousands of pictures, recounting memorable stories and reminiscing on the friendships and experiences I’ve had. Recipes are already in the works, photos are being shared, and there is a pile of memorabilia items waiting to go in a scrapbook. This was indeed a once in a life time opportunity, and I will never forget that time I spent six weeks in Italy. I want to say thank you for enjoying this wonderful experience with me, hopefully there will be many more to come!

Tanto Amore,

Madelyn

Roman Holiday

Thursday

I thought I would do a quick highlight of our time in Rome, instead of going through this part of the trip day-by-day. So we reluctantly said goodbye to Siena Thursday morning,and started making our way to Rome in the hot Italian sun. Once we checked into our hotel, we did a quick tour of the Roman Forum as well as the Colosseum. The sun was really beating on us, even though it was already 6:00, so we went to take a shower and refresh before dinner (there was a theme of “rest and refresh” for these couple of days spent in Rome). We took a suggestion from the hotel, and went to a small trattoria up the street.

We all sat down and positioned ourselves so we could see the TV in the restaurant (Italy was playing Germany tonight in the semi-finals of the Euro Cup). I ordered Bumbolotti with sage, walnuts, and gorgonzola, all doused in a cream sauce. It was rich, decadent and full of flavor. The sage added its typical earthy flavor while the walnuts added a slight crunch and the gorgonzola added an extra buttery flavor with a slight bite at the end. Jamie and I then shared a plate of roasted potatoes they we enjoyed plain, and also used to wipe of the remaining bits of sauce on our plates. After we finished dinner, we went to a bar down the street to finish watching the soccer game. Italy won against Germany, and made it to the finals of the Euro Cup (something many people thought was highly unlikely). We left the bar, and people were subtly rejoicing, but by the time we got back to the hotel room, all of Rome was erupting in jubilation. Horns were honking, flags were being ripped off of buildings, and people were running triumphantly through the streets. It was a great way to start off our final days in Italy.

Friday

After enjoying some breakfast at the hotel, we set off to go on a double-decker bus tour of Rome. Our first stop was Piazza Venezia which is home to Trojan’s Market and the Victor Emmanuel II monument. Monument is said to look like a wedding cake from the sky, and we climbed to the top in the beating heat. Then we got back on the bus and enjoyed the nice ride through the streets until we got to the Spanish Steps and hopped off the bus again. We took pictures on the steps, walked to the Trevi Fountain where we tossed in coins for good luck, and then made our way to Piazza Navona. In Piazza Navona is where we discovered something that could only be described as heavenly – tartufo. Tartufo is an Italian ice-cream dessert made with rich, dark chocolate ice-cream, all coated in a hard chocolate shell. A cherry is hidden in the middle, while the top is finished with a crown of whip cream and a flaky wafer. We indulged silently in our ice-cream treats, closing our eyes with each bite as we succumbed to the ambrosial dessert. After finishing our midday snack, we headed back on the bus where we just enjoyed riding another loop around the city before going back to the hotel for another rest and refresh break.

After taking a cold shower, we headed out for dinner. We walked along the streets by our hotel in search for mussels (it was one of the girls birthdays, and this was her birthday request). Surprisingly, we ended up back at the same restaurant from the night before, but nobody was really complaining. This time, I ordered bruschetta to start, and tagliolini with black truffle sauce for my entrée. The earthy yet elegant mushroom added a satisfying sophistication to the dish which can only be described as simply delicious. It was a tough competitor to my pasta dish from the previous night. After dinner, we went back to the room once again before heading out for a night on the town.

We first went to an Ice Bar that was right around the corner from our hotel. Upon entering the bar, you’re given a heavy, down cape before they let you through the doors to the frosty party room. The doors transport you to a world of ice complete with mini-igloo’s and fur covered benches. The shorts and sandals didn’t suit the atmosphere too well, so we didn’t stay beyond our first drink. Then, we made our way across the Tiber River to a bookstore looking bar that had one specialty – chocolate shots. One has the option to choose from about 12 different concoctions. I got the Scappatella, a hazelnut liquored treat. After fully enjoying our chocolate shot experience, we went to the small shops set up along the river to explore. Bars, restaurants and vendors lined the walkway of the Tiber River. Once we walked the length of the river, we retreated back to our hotel to get some rest before our final day in Italy.

Saturday

Jamie and I started our day off early so we could get a full day in at Vatican City without being rushed. As soon as we got there, we hopped on the ever-growing line to enter the basilica. About 40 minutes later, we were finally within the Vatican’s walls. We decided to climb the cupola, and 521 steps later, we were at the top overlooking the Vatican’s courtyard as well as magnificent views of the city of Rome. We made our way back down and went inside the basilica, and were both overwhelmed by the beauty of the church. After we toured around the basilica, Jamie and I met up with the rest of the group to go into the Vatican Museum. Jamie and I were already on a time crunch because we had a 3:30 tour of the underground Acropolis that lies underneath the Vatican – leaving us little time to go through the museum and see the Sistine Chapel.

Our journey through the museum became more like a race of who could get furthest in the line without getting dirty looks, and who was able to evade the security guards when slipping under ropes. Jamie and I made it to the Sistine Chapel with no time to spare, and unfortunately didn’t find the experience to be very enjoyable – not only were we on a time budget, but the Chapel was so loud and crowded that it made it difficult for anyone to enjoy. We finally made it to our Scalvi tour, and were excited with anticipation to see the underground city built for the dead. Streets, houses and gardens were hidden underneath the massive church and were impeccably preserved.

Jamie and I went back to the hotel for our afternoon rest and refresh before meeting our entire abroad group in Piazza Navona for a group dinner and our final activity of the whole trip. I, personally, was disappointed with the meal – it did not come close to our lunch at the monastery or even our past two dinners at the small restaurant by our hotel. Our
dinner was complete with an onion quiche and eggplant meatball, penne with sauce and bacon, pan-roasted chicken with roasted potatoes, and a rather potent tiramisu. Our second dessert made up for the dinner though – we went back for a second round of tartufo. We then walked around through the streets of Rome and wandered back to our hotel, before sullenly going to bed, knowing it was our last night in Italy.

Note About Paris

Well, it is sad to say, but tomorrow will be my last day in Siena. Jamie and I are busy running all of our last-minute errands, hitting our favorite food spots, and just wandering around one last time in Siena. I’m sorry for not only the delay in posting, but also that I won’t be putting up a post about our weekend in Paris anytime soon. Since we’re approaching the last few days of the trip, I want to really take the time to enjoy and reminisce on all the wonderful memories and opportunities I was able to experience this summer. I will be posting about my last week in Italy at some point, but until then, here are a couple pictures from mine and Jamie’s wonderful weekend in the City of Lights – Paris.

No Sleep Till Paris

So, for our final weekend getaway before the end of our trip, Jamie and I decided to go to Pairs. We’ll be off tomorrow afternoon, and I’ll be sure to update everyone on our Parisian Chic weekend when we’re back in Italy. Until then, à bientôt!

Just Another Good Food Day

Warning: The Post you are about to read has a very strong emphasis on food. (Could you really blame me? It’s all just so good!)

Today, Jamie and I didn’t have anything for breakfast in the room, so we decided a mid-week Meet Life run wouldn’t hurt. We ventured out of our comfort zone, and each indulged in a chocolate covered cornetto that was laced with nutella inside. It was rich and decadent, and a tough competitor to our typical cream-filled lobster tails. We went to class, and unfortunately had to start thinking about our final exam for the course… hopefully it won’t be too detrimental to our last few days in Siena (we only have one week left in Siena before we go to Rome for the final part of our trip). After class, Jamie, Nina, Jackie and I went to the weekly Wednesday market where we opened Jackie and Nina’s eyes to the wonderful world of porchetta. Neither of them have yet to have the fat, juicy and salty pork sandwiches. They both fully enjoyed the experience, and Jamie and I didn’t mind satisfying our taste buds with them as well.

After perusing through the market, Jamie and I went to visit Santa Maria della Scala Museum, which was a hospital in Siena that has now been turned into an art museum. Honestly, Jamie and I were rather confused about the layout and the exhibits in the museum – I think mostly because it wasn’t what we were expecting. My favorite thing that we did happen to see in the museum though was a wagon that used to be in the contrada parades during the Palio. It was decorated with all of the colors and animals of each contrada. I always enjoy seeing something so closely related to Siena’s culture and the Palio. After touring the museum, Jamie and I attempted to get some more shopping done. Jamie bought a beautiful ceramic bowl, while I finished scouting out some things and compiling my final list of gifts. Once we finished our rounds of shopping, we retreated back to our apartment to escape the heat and get ready for dinner.

One of Nina’s friends from school was traveling in Europe after his semester abroad, and came to visit for the day. Nina wanted to take him to a nice dinner and invited all of us to join. Jamie and I couldn’t help but suggest the osteria that we ate at a few weeks ago where we tried the traditional pasta of Tuscany – Pici. So, all eight of us went to Osteria della Chiacchiera where we all had the Pici. This time, I tried the Pici Boscaiola which was coated in a pan sauce made with porcini mushrooms, sausage and small bits of tomato. It was simply delicious and I was happy to enjoy such a traditional Sienese dish. Jamie and I also decided to try something else on the menu, and ordered a potato dish called Patate Fattoressa, where the freshly boiled potatoes were coated in a variation of a tomato sauce. The potatoes were soft and creamy while the tomato sauce added a tangy flavor. After leisurely enjoying our dinner, we set off to Kopakabana for dessert. My choices for tonight were fondente and fior de latte. It was a typical black and white combination, that balanced each other flawlessly. It was the perfect way to end a great food day!

San Gimignano and a Side Trip to Volterra

We had an early wake-up call this morning to venture on the last group trip of our study abroad program. By 8:30 we were on our way to our first stop, San Gimignano – a small medieval town perched on top of a hill that in many ways mirrors Siena. We first took a tour of the Palazzo Communale and marveled at many aged frescos. Then we made our way to the top of the tower which held stunning views of San Gimignano as well as the Tuscan countryside.  We took many pictures, and then made our way back down the 200 step climb. We were then given a tour of the “Duomo,” which is really referred to as the Parish church because every other legitimate Duomo dwarfs this one in comparison. However, it still held comparable medieval and ecclesiastical history. Then, it was finally time for lunch.

Jamie brought her Rick Steve’s Guide with her, which helped narrow down our choice for lunch. On our way to Piazza Sant’Agostino, someone came up to us wearing a Villanova t-shirt, and asked if we were from Villanova. It turns out, he is one of the Priests and Professors on campus that was with the architecture program also studying in Italy at the time. He was very kind, and pleased to meet us, and offered to give us a tour of Sant’Agostino (he happened to have the keys because that is where the group is staying while in San Gimignano). He showed and explained the frescos that told the story of Saint Augustine, and added a lively dialogue that was incomparable to any other tour guide we have had – we were very thankful for the change of pace! We thanked him for the private tour, and then made our way to the trattoria we had chosen for lunch that was located right in the square of Sant’Agostino.

All seven of us sat down at two slightly overcrowded tables, and began gazing at the menu with very hungry stomachs. San Gimignano is known for their Vernaccia white wine that is produced from the vernaccia grape which is grown in the area. Some of us, including myself, decided to try the small town’s delicacy. You will be very surprised that I actually ordered a salad for the first time while in Italy (crazy, I know), but followed it up with one of the many choices of bruschetta on the menu. Others got salads and bruschetta as well, while others, including Jamie, settled on pizza. This wine was delicious – it was a lighter and fresher version of a pinot grigio, or so I was told… but was a nice way to start off the lunch (it has been one of my favorite wines that I have tried while here in Italy). I started with my mushroom, mozzarella and prosciutto bruschetta, which was much bigger in size than I was expecting, but absolutely delicious. The rustic Italian bread was fresh and toasted, and covered in a thick layer of sauteed mushrooms which was encased by the melted mozzarella cheese. Thin strips of prosciutto crudo were laid over the top. The mushrooms held so much flavor, and the prosciutto added a hint of saltiness. Next was my green salad with apple, pecorino and walnuts. It was light and very tasty, especially on this once again, extremely hot day. All of our plates were clean and our stomachs were almost fully satisfied. As per usual, no day would be complete without gelato, and on this hot and humid day, it was just the thing that everyone needed to get to Volterra. We were told about a world famous gelateria that we just couldn’t say no to. They had so many interesting flavors from Vernaccia wine gelato, to fior di nutella. Our cones fit three flavors, so I tried the vin santo gelato, fior di nutella and mandorla. The vin santo gelato was light and held the same sweet aftertaste as the dessert wine usually has. The fior di nutella was sweet milk ice-cream with frozen bits of nutella and whole hazelnuts swirled in. My last flavor was almond, and complemented and bound all my flavors together. Their world famous title was rightfully given. All of the flavors were delicious and none of us wanted our cones to end.

We then headed back onto the bus to make our way to Volterra which was only a 45 min drive from San Gimignano. The bus, however, lacked air conditioning and made everybody miserable for the duration of the ride. When we finally arrived in Volterra, the entire group was not in the exploring mood, so our trip was cut short. We were given a brief tour of Volterra, which included viewing the gate to the city, as well as the Roman Theater. We decided as a group to skip out on our free time and to just head back to Siena for some revitilating cold showers. Tonight, Jamie, myself, as well as two other girls in our apartment, Jackie and Nina, decided to have ourselves a mini potluck dinner. Jamie and I were responsible for making the appetizers – which were the gorgonzola and pear bruschetta – while Nina made pasta with a vodka-like tomato sauce, and Jackie made a samosa dessert, but without the coconut (Jackie couldn’t find any). All of our dishes came out amazingly well, and we all enjoyed the mini-feast we had created. Jamie and I were especially impressed with ourselves on how well the gorgonzola and pear bruschetta came out! The rest of the night was spent cleaning up dinner and chatting around the kitchen table.

Monday Monday Monday

Today was not a very exciting one, but it did consist of a lot of good food! Our day started off with the usual Monday Meet Life run, where we picked up our lobster tail pastries and a cappuccino. After class and enjoying our pastries, we went to San Domenico Church to tour the inside. The church held relics of Saint Catherine, such as her finger and her face, which were somehow both fascinating and disturbing. After walking through the church, Jamie and I set off to start chipping away at our ever-growing shopping list for souvenirs, as well as some gifts for ourselves. Our shopping extravaganza was cut short, however, because a lot of the stores were closed, so we decided to go to Kopakabana for lunch to quench our ever-growing need for something cold – it was about 88 degrees today. I ordered panna croc (it was caramel with some type of cookie in it) and hazelnut. It was so good, and tasted even more refreshing today because of the extensive heat. Jamie and I then went back to the apartment to relax and waited until 3:00 when the stores would reopen from their afternoon siestas.

This time, neither of us had a strike out, and were able to both get some things checked off our list. After some shopping, we went to Conad to pick up some items for breakfast, as well as ingredients for our apartment potluck tomorrow night (we already decided to make the gorgonzola and pear bruschetta again!). We came back, put our groceries away, and then headed out to the Campo to meet up with some other girls from our trip so we could go to dinner and watch Italy play Ireland in the Euro Cup. We ate at our usual pizza joint in the Campo, where I ordered a Granbufula pizza, which consisted of tomato sauce, mozzarella, and large shavings of parmesan cheese. We all enjoyed eating our consistently delicious pizza, and watching Italy win its first game in the Euro Cup!

Swimming in the Mediterranean

Today was our day of relaxation – we thought we deserved it after our bike tour yesterday! Jamie and I got on the bus to Follonica around 7:50 and were on the beach by 9:45. Follonica is a small, quaint beach town that attracts sun-bathers and swimmers alike. Jamie and I found a plot of sand
with an ocean-front view and began enjoying our beach day. We were relaxing, sun-bathing, as well as going in and out of the ocean until around 2:00 when we decided it was time for lunch. Jamie and I ventured into town to find food, but the options were few and far between, so we settled on the first pizza place we came across. After pizza, we got gelato – it was a must have for this extremely hot and sunny day. I ordered a cone of banana gelato which was cold, sweet and refreshing, and tasted like the banana daiquiri’s I would get poolside while on vacation. Jamie settled on creama which she claimed was equally as refreshing. We then headed back to the beach to catch a couple more hours of sun before hopping back on the bus to Siena.

When we arrived in Siena, we were tired from the heat and the bus ride that was made slightly longer due to some unnecessary traffic. We got back to the apartment and put a pot of water on for pasta and showered immediately. We really enjoyed our beach day, but were looking forward to a good night’s sleep before our upcoming busy week.

Biking Through Tuscany

Jamie and I have been looking forward to this day all week – today we would finally be taking our bike tour through the Tuscan hills of Chianti. We got on the bus to Florence at 7:15, and were in the area by 8:45. Jamie and I, as well as some other girls from the apartment, wandered the streets of Florence to find the bike store. Once there, we met up with some other girls on the trip with us to sign in and get ready to bike. They took us about 40 minutes outside the city of Florence to the countryside. Our first stop was Piombino Castle where they now produce their own varieties of wine and olive oil.

We first started with a tour of the castle. They showed us where the wine is produced and stored for aging. Then we saw where the olives were pressed and produced into oil. Our guide, James, told us that it takes four olive trees to produce just one liter bottle of olive oil. Then we climbed to the top of the castle’s tower to take a glimpse at the gorgeous views of Tuscany. The tower, where they store their own vin santo (my new favorite wine) in the same barrels that they made when they first founded the winery. Vin santo is much sweeter in taste partly due to how long they age it, and also because of the ripeness of the grape – they wait until the grape is almost in raisin form before squeezing out its sweet juices. After climbing to the top of the tower, admiring its breathtaking views, and taking a few pictures, it was time for our wine and olive oil tasting. When we descended the stairs and went out to the courtyard, a table of red wine and olive oiled bread awaited us. This was the first red wine I tasted, and actually enjoyed. It wasn’t too peppery and had just a light oaky flavor. We were all pretty hungry at this point too – so we devoured the fresh italian bread that was drizzled with some of the best olive oil I have ever had. It was a lighter variety that added a tasteful flavor to the bread. After we all finished eating bread and drinking our glasses of wine, it was time to start biking.

We were each equipped with our own helmet, water bottle, and bike (mine’s name was Speedy Gonzales) and were given some rules to obey, then we were off. Our italian guide, Alesseo, would be leading us through the hills. He was extremely nice, and funny, and started off our tour by exclaiming “chase me girls!” in his rich Italian accent. We biked to the top of the hill where the driveway ended – which was a bit difficult for some… or maybe most of us – and then it was mostly flat and downhill from there. We took a brief stop at an overlook to take some pictures and get a view of the castle where we did our wine tasting, and then we continued on our way to lunch. We stopped at a small trattoria that looked like it was in the middle of nowhere. Green salads awaited us (my second for the trip thus far) as well as pitchers of red wine. We were each given a pasta and a dessert choice. I chose penne with zucchini and panna cotta, and honestly found the meal a little underwhelming – but it was fuel to help us finish the second leg of our bike tour.

After lunch we biked for about a half hour on flat, open road, that showcased views of the Chianti area. when we came to the end of our straight stretch, and a quick break, it was time to take on the .7 mile winding hill that stood before us. There was an option to take the van to the top – which many girls opted for – but Jamie, myself and four other girls were determined to make it to the top. The first half wasn’t too bad, and was successfully
completed without stopping – then we needed a break. The next quarter was the hardest and required two breaks for myself. Then, finally the last leg was in sight, as well as the cafe that we would all be meeting at. We all finally made it to the top, hot, panting and beat red. Here we were able to sit, relax and get some much-needed water before finishing the last part of our tour – which was thankfully mostly flat and downhill.

We arrived back at the castle, returned our bikes, and were all very proud of the 13 mile bike tour we just completed. We were driven back to Florence where some of the girls were staying the night, in search for dinner, but Jamie and I caught the 5:40 bus back to Siena. Once we arrived back to our quaint city, we made a quick stop at “Great Hot Sandwiches” for dinner, where I indulged in a prosciutto, sausage, formaggio and zucchini panini. We went back to the apartment and decided to award ourselves with some Kopakabana. My selections for dessert were yogurt with strawberries, and opera, which was a mixture of several different nuts. It seems like an odd combination, I know, but those were the flavors I wanted and they were equally refreshing and delicious. Jamie and I then retreated back to the apartment to pack our bags for the beach and rest our bodies from our exhausting yet exhilarating bike tour.

Off to the Duomo we go!

Our day started off today with a history test, which seems to have gone off without a hitch. Jamie and I then made our way back to the apartment to drop off our bags, and make a quick trip to the supermarket to pick up some essentials for breakfast this weekend. Tomorrow Jamie and I are doing a bike tour in the countryside, and on Sunday we’re going to the beach for the day, so we wanted to have some food on hand just in case. Due to the high temperature today, Jamie and I couldn’t think of a better option for lunch than Kopakabana gelato. Today’s selection was BiscoCroc, which was like a biscotti cookie, and Ciocco Riso, which was similar to chocolate rice pudding. Both were delicious and complemented each other very well. It was the perfect lunch to beat the heat.

Jamie and I then made our way to the Duomo – we decided today was our day to explore the church and the museum, as well as climb the unfinished arch. We got there and decided to buy the combination ticket that included all the different visiting points, as well as to climb the unfinished section of the Duomo. We first went through the Museo dell’Opera which housed the original artwork and sculptures that were once on the original Duomo before it was updated and restored. As we climbed through the museum, we made it to the top where we were able to get a panoramic view of the city of Siena. They had originally planned to make the Duomo much larger than it was, but due to the plague, the Sienese were unable to complete the project. So the arch now stands just as a place for tourists to gain a beautiful view of Siena and the Tuscan countryside.

At 3:30, we had a guided tour that took us through the baptistery, the Crypt and the Cathedral. We not only learned so much about the buildings and architecture, but also about the history of Siena. The strip design on the facade of the Duomo can be seen on the replicated facades of the Duomo in Florence and in Pisa. The reasoning for the black and white stripes came from the story of how Siena was founded. It was said that two men escaped from Rome came to Siena, one riding a black horse and the other riding a white horse, and that’s how Siena got its colors of its flag and why the Duomo is stripped black and white. After we finished touring the Duomo, we walked around for a bit before we were hungry enough for dinner. It was suggested to us by some other girls in the group to try pici with wild boar sauce, so that’s what we were on the hunt for. We went to Ristorante San Desiderio which was right down the hill from the Duomo.

Jamie and I started off with a traditional Tuscan sampling platter with different salumi’s and crostini’s. There were three crostini’s: a traditional bruschetta, pig intestine (which I skipped, but Jamie was game for it), and a mushroom puree one with melted cheese on top. In the middle of the platter was a fresh wedge of pecorino cheese. Jamie and I split and enjoyed each item before moving on to our main courses. Jamie decided to
be adventurous and tried the pici with wild boar sauce, while I opted for risotto with zucchini and prawns. The risotto was filling and creamy, the zucchini was fresh as were the whole prawns that rested on top of the dish. Jamie was enticed by her wild boar, and relished in the new pace of flavor. We both savored our dinner choices, and were excited to go back to the apartment to taste our Savini desserts.

Jamie and I both got a Chantilly cream dessert that sat on a beg of strawberries. It was light and delicious – but not one of mine or Jamie’s favorites (you see, we’re both chocolate girls, so we needed something a bit more decadent). Then I indulged in a butter cookie that was filled with nutella in the middle and a sprinkling of hazelnuts on top, while Jamie enjoyed a chocolate Napoleon type dessert. We both thoroughly enjoyed our sweet treats, and tried to get to bed early for the busy day that awaited us.